The Brighton Beach Avenue store isn’t the first in the chain, but perhaps the most beloved. It’s located on a corner beneath the elevated train tracks, at the busiest intersection in the neighborhood.

Manager Fazliddin Asrorqulov says the location was chosen deliberately. A large share of New Yorkers rely on public transit, and this corner never quiets down — from early morning to late at night, people are constantly moving through.

“On one side, a direct path to the beach. On the other, the subway. And above you, the train. This is where people exit the station — the most crowded spot in Brighton. In New York, many people don’t cook at home. There is no time for it. Everyone is busy. They come in, take what they need, and leave,” he explains.