Heirloom recipes in Silay City, Negros Occidental, risk being forgotten amid the shifting interests of younger generations toward viral online food trends

NEGROS OCCIDENTAL, Philippines – Silay City in Negros Occidental is known for valuing its history, arts, tourism, and cultural heritage.

Dubbed the “Little Paris of Negros Occidental,” Silay is more than just the home of the world-renowned Balay Negrense – the mansions of sugar barons built between 1897 and 1901.

The city is also famous for its heirloom recipes with distinctive flavors that set it apart from other places in Negros Occidental.

Silay’s lechon baboy (roasted pig) by Emma Roa is a sought-after dish for special occasions even among wealthy Negrense families. For decades, the Roa family has maintained the tenderness and flavor of their lechon, making it consistently regarded as the “best in town.” The recipe, however, remains a closely guarded secret to this day.

Renowned for its signature wafer-thin, crispy skin, Emma Roa’s lechon is also celebrated for its flavorful meat, infused with secret local herbs that add an aromatic, unforgettable taste.

Nanay Rosalinda Belleza’s fresh lumpia is another standout, delighting locals and visitors for more than three decades. Made with ubod (heart of palm), ground pork, shrimp, and other vegetables, a trip to Silay wouldn’t be complete without tasting or taking home Nanay Rosalinda’s fresh lumpia.

This one stands out for its use of fresh ingredients, delivering natural nutrients and vibrant flavors. The homemade crepe-like wrappers are delicate yet sturdy, perfectly complementing the filling. 

The dish is further elevated by a signature savory sauce, highlighted by the harmonious balance of salty and sweet peanuts. 

Above all, each lumpia is made “with love,” a personal touch that keeps patrons coming back.

The Gaston family’s Adobong Milyonaryong Baboy is another culinary gem. Its flavor is completely distinct from other adobong baboy (braised pork) across the country.

Specialized by Monsignor GG Gaston, this adobong milyonaryo is known for its generous use of garlic, producing a rich, unforgettable flavor that delights every palate.

For over five decades, dishes like German Unson’s diablo (spicy chicken relleno), pato sa tuba (duck in coconut wine), and chorizo pudpod (shredded chorizo) have been carefully preserved, reflecting the city’s dedication to culinary heritage.

For those who crave “heat,” Diablo delivers. A substantial amount of pepper perfectly complements the chicken, offering a spicy yet delicious kick that keeps diners coming back for more.

All these contribute to Silay’s excellence in food tourism. 

These heirloom recipes, however, risk being forgotten amid the shifting interests of younger generations toward viral online food trends. Gerle Sulmaca, Silay’s tourism officer, told Rappler, “We really need to move forward to preserve our heirloom recipes.”

This month’s edition of Kaon ‘Ta (Let’s Eat), Silay’s annual food fair, reflected that intention: to attract young people, especially younger members of the families behind these dishes, to take responsibility for preserving their culinary heritage. 

The city government said it remains committed to showcasing these heirloom recipes at events nationwide and abroad.

When former Silay mayor Jose “Oti” Montelibano conceptualized Kaon ‘Ta in 2016, his aim was simply to showcase the city’s proud culinary heritage to the public.

Held on the grounds of the Balay Negrense on Cinco de Noviembre Street, Barangay III-Poblacion, the food fair has become an integral part of the city’s annual Al Cinco de Noviembre celebration. The event commemorates the bloodless revolution in Negros Occidental in 1898 – every November 5, as well as the patronal fiesta in honor of Silay’s patron saint, San Diego de Alcala, from November 1 to 13.

“Food heritage is our asset. It defines our identity as Silaynons. We will preserve it no matter what,” Sulmaca assured.

Chel Jimenez, granddaughter of the late German and Fe Ledesma-Unson, said she is committed to preserving her grandparents’ recipes.

For her, these dishes – created over 50 years ago – are more than family heirlooms; they are a legacy to be cherished beyond pride. She promised to maintain this culinary heritage despite challenging times. – Rappler.com