By Sheikha Suhaila Fahad Al-Sabah
Managing Editor
In a historic step embodying the depth of Arab cooperation and cultural cohesion, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) inscribed the ‘Bisht’, the traditional Arab men’s cloak, in its list of Arab Cultural Heritage. The file, ‘The Bisht: Skills and Practices’, has been added to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, during the 20th session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, held in New Delhi, India from 8–13 December.
The inclusion of the ‘Bisht’ in the prestigious UNESCO list was the result of joint efforts led by the State of Qatar, with the participation of Kuwait, the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries, Jordan, Iraq, and Syria, reflecting a strong Arab commitment to protecting and preserving their shared heritage for future generations.
The bisht, a men’s cloak associated with prestige and social standing, dates back centuries. Ancient Christian and Hebrew texts indicate its use during the time of Jesus, particularly among the inhabitants of the Levant and the Holy Land. The Greek historian Herodotus was among the first to document this garment in the 5th century BC, describing Arab soldiers as “wearing a long cloak tied with a belt.”
Linguistic research suggests that the word ‘bisht’ originates from Akkadian, the Semitic language of Babylon, and carries the meaning of majesty and grandeur—a connotation befitting the status of this garment, worn by princes, nobles, Sufi mystics, and dignitaries throughout history. The word appears in numerous legal and literary sources, including Al-Shirazi’s ‘Nihayat al-Rutba fi Talab al-Hisba’ and Jalal al-Hanafi’s ‘Dictionary of Colloquial Baghdadi Arabic’.
Over the centuries, the bisht has remained a symbol of dignity, elegance, and social status in various Arab societies. Worn on national, official, and social occasions, it showcases meticulous hand-sewing and traditional embroidery skills. Its inclusion on the UNESCO list is a culmination of Arab cooperation in preparing a file that reflects the unity of heritage and the depth of shared cultural ties.
Bisht making flourished in Kuwait during the 1930s and 40s, with several families and diwaniyas (traditional gathering places) renowned for their mastery of this craft. Competition among these families was fierce, given the difficulty of the process and the long hours of meticulous work required to complete a single bisht. Diwaniya owners offered the craftsmen financial compensation, incentivizing creativity and thus establishing a solid reputation for families whose names have been synonymous with quality and craftsmanship for decades.
Bishts are classified into two main types: summer bishts and winter bishts. The most famous summer bishts include the Najafi, Durqi, English, and Japanese bishts, with the Najafi bisht being the most renowned for its quality and durability. Winter bishts include the Bushehr, Hasawi, Jordanian, Syrian, and Kashmiri bishts. Spring bishts have also become popular, including the Japanese bisht made of wool, and other types known as ‘optional’ bishts made from lightweight wool yarn.
In terms of embellishment, zari (gold thread) stands out as the luxurious touch that distinguishes the bisht. ‘Free zari’ is considered the finest type due to its quality, made of silver plated with pure gold and sewn by hand without the use of machines. Other types plated with copper are also available, though they are less expensive and of lower quality. With the development of weaving machines, the color options have expanded to include blue, sky blue, burgundy, blond, and lemon, whereas black and brown were previously the dominant colors.
In keeping with evolving fashion trends, women’s bisht designs have emerged in recent years, emulating its traditional form with a modern touch. Some women opt for these designs for special occasions, reflecting the ability of this heritage to adapt to contemporary demands without abandoning its authentic identity. The bisht market in Kuwait has witnessed a remarkable revival in recent years, with a renewed demand for wearing it at formal and social events, particularly among grooms, government officials, businessmen, the elderly, and even some members of parliament for their private occasions. The quality of the fabric, the precision of the weaving, and the use of zari (gold or silver thread) play a key role in determining the value and price of a bisht.
This joint Arab achievement comes at a time when Kuwait continues to strengthen its global cultural presence. In recent years, it has inscribed six elements on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, including henna, date palms, Sadu weaving, and Arabic calligraphy. This reflects Kuwait’s commitment to preserving its heritage, promoting its cultural identity, and exchanging expertise with the international community. The Kuwaiti delegation actively participated in the UNESCO committee meetings in New Delhi. The delegation included representatives from the Department of Antiquities and Museums and the Sadu Weaving Society, who made significant contributions to the committee’s discussions and the session’s proceedings.
The inscription of the bisht on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity represents global recognition of the value of this ancient heritage. It underscores the importance of preserving the traditional skills and practices associated with it and embodies a successful model of Arab cooperation in safeguarding shared heritage. This achievement highlights the bisht’s ability to evolve and adapt to the times without losing its grandeur and authenticity, remaining a timeless symbol of Arab identity and a cultural landmark that extends from the past to the future.
The bisht is more than just a traditional garment; it carries profound social and cultural messages. Throughout history, it has been associated with celebrations and joyous occasions, becoming an integral part of the rituals that accompany life in Arab societies. In many Gulf communities, the bisht is given as a gift to express appreciation and respect, reflecting its symbolic significance in the Arab consciousness. Furthermore, the bisht serves as a means of preserving traditional crafts, combining weaving skills, tailoring precision, and embroidery techniques, thus keeping these crafts alive and in demand despite the dominance of modern fashion industry.
With its growing international recognition, the bisht has secured a prominent place at global events celebrating heritage and fashion. It has begun appearing at international exhibitions and cultural evenings, and global designers are increasingly studying its techniques and incorporating its details into their modern designs. This expansion reflects the bisht’s ability to transcend its local boundaries and become part of the global dialogue on the importance of preserving heritage as an inspiring element in creative industries. This opens new horizons for Arab artisans and strengthens the position of Gulf heritage on the international stage.
