While Bratislava’s Christmas markets are fast becoming the talk of Europe, having been declared the Best Value for Money in 2024, a very different kind of festive experience awaits just a short 30 minute train ride to the east. Trnava, often called “Little Rome” for its Renaissance architecture and church spires, opens its Advent celebrations on November 28. For many, the opening parade of angels and lanterns is reason enough to visit. But for one long term resident, it is much more than that.

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“We go there every year, especially for the arrival of St. Nicholas, but several times a week just to drink mulled wine or medovina [honey wine] as well,” says Graeme Mark Donaldson, a musician from Northern Ireland who has lived in Trnava for 13 years. “It’s the paradox of the season that in the middle of winter you can go somewhere that makes you feel warm inside.”

A parade of angels

The markets will open on November 28 at 17:30 with a parade of oversized angel puppets accompanied by a brass orchestra. “Advent markets are beginning in Trnava,” says Viera Tranžíková from Trnava Tourism. “The parade will go from SNP Square to Trinity Square, where visitors will light the Christmas tree together.” Last year, many attendees spontaneously bought lanterns with them to light the way. This year, visitors are encouraged to do the same.

Last year, hundreds of photographs were taken under the tree’s glowing light canopy, and Trnava is preparing to delight visitors again. This year’s festival route will be lined with new light installations forming a circular winter promenade around the historic centre. These include a starry light avenue on Strelecká Street created from 175 handcrafted stars, a “tree of love” decorated with illuminated hearts on St. Nicholas Square, a heart shaped tunnel in the Rose Park, and oversized angel wings for visitor photos on SNP Square. Several historic buildings, including Pracháreň and Emmer’s Villa, which are in the process of being restored, will also receive festive evening illumination. 

A fairy tale view from the tower

For a musician like Donaldson, the Advent concerts are one of the festival’s strongest draws. This year’s line up on Trinity Square includes Hudba z Marsu, Funny Fellows, Bukasový masív, Ukitas and Tamara Kramar. The Church of St. James will host a series of four Advent concerts featuring groups such as the Bratislava Boys’ Choir and Nebeská muzika from Terchová.

Children’s fairy tale performances will be staged every Advent Sunday inside the beautifully restored synagogue, now home to the Centre for Contemporary Art.

St. Nicholas himself arrives on December 5 beneath the Basilica of St. Nicholas. He will travel by horse drawn carriage through the city before closing his procession with a performance by the beloved children’s duo Spievankovo and a disco for the youngest visitors on Trinity Square.

One of the most unique Advent experiences in Trnava is the night time ascent of the city tower, accessible only by lamplight and with a guide.

“We offer people the chance to see Trnava’s landmark in a fairy tale atmosphere,” says Alexander Prostinák, director of Trnava Tourism. “It perfectly matches the Christmas mood that fills the whole city.”

Donaldson agrees that the atmosphere is what sets Trnava apart. “There is something about being in a smaller city where everyone comes together,” he says. “It feels familiar, almost like a village Christmas but with a beautiful historic backdrop.”

From December 19 to 21, the Medieval Advent Markets return to St. Nicholas Square. These feature demonstrations of traditional handcrafts such as candle dipping, wafer baking, leatherwork and blacksmithing, recreated in a historically inspired setting with jugglers, dancers and a farm courtyard feel.

Nearby, the Trnava Cultural Centre will host Time of Joy and Cheer, offering regional folk performances and handcrafted goods in the courtyard of the House of Music of Mikuláš Schneider Trnavský. On December 6, the Synagogue, Centre for Contemporary Art will also host the annual Trnava Christmas Market (Trnavský rínek), showcasing local handmade designers.

Small town charm with big appeal

For many long term residents, the Advent markets are the highlight of the winter season and a tradition that keeps them returning year after year. Its a labour of love and a community effort.  “Very often I am part of the programme as well, so I know how much work the culture team put into it, “Donaldson says, “It is a great community event, the kind you only get in small towns. I always see someone I know and talk to someone I have not seen in years.”

With its lantern lit procession, rich cultural programme and intimate small city charm, Trnava’s Advent celebrations offer a compelling alternative to the capital’s busier Christmas markets. For anyone seeking a festive escape full of tradition, music and community spirit, the Little Rome of Slovakia may be the warmest place to be this winter.

As Christmas Markets explode in popularity across Europe, Bratislava’s has been repeatedly touted by international news outlets as the place to be. Forbes, the Express and CNN have all listed Bratislava as worth a look, with CNN listing it alongside Christmas markets in New York, Toronto and Singapore. 

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